1gogobm.jpg (19548 bytes)         Flying on the String Bridges
-Scientist adventure in the largest canyon of the world -

 

         

By Li Bosheng
Prof. of Botany

Institute of Botany, Chinese Academy of Science, Beijing 
Director of Beijing Botany Garden
Head of Botany Group, China Great Canyon Expeditions (1980's)
One of the 3 scientists who discovered the Great Canyon

Prof. Li Bosheng spent 1 year & 3 months (1983) in the Great Canyon to investigate this "Genetic treasure of Mt. biological resource".
Prof. Li Bosheng

As a famous botanist, he went into Tibet for several dozens times and spent 15 months in the forests of the largest canyon in the world. He dedicated to the Qing-Tibet Plateau botany, ecosystem, environment and tourism protection etc research fields. His research group was awarded the "National Park Medal" by WCPA (World Commission on Protected Areas).
He is on the Board of WCPA / IUCN East Asia Committee and the Director of East Asia Nature Protection Research, Observation & Education Center.
Author of "Botany of Tibet", "Biology of Mt.. Namcha Barwa Region" etc 10 scientific books and >20 popular science books etc.

 

 

Flying on the String Bridge 

Until now, when I remember the scenes of doing scientific expedition in Yalung Tsangpu River Great canyon, the first one is always the string bridges and the storming river underneath it. I did so many times to across the river valley by climbing over the string bridges, it became the most unforgettable scene.

Flying on the string bridges was a risk of life, even many local Tibetans dare not to do it.

However since most bridges across the Yalung Tsangpu river in the Great Canyon region were string bridges. If I could not master  this difficult skill, I'll missed many interesting areas of my scientific investigation. I tried it. Eventually even the local Menba people praised my skill and speed to across the string bridges.
However when your life was suspended on such a string in the air, waving by the strong valley wind, the spirit of Death was smiling to you. During my first time and during my illness to fly on the string bridges, I truly felt the wing of the Death touched me.

20 March 1983, I, Su and Tibetan guides were leaving Diton Village. We planned to across the Yalung Tsangpu River to investigate a virgin tropical forest on the opposite bank of the river. The string bridge here was suspended over the river about 100 meter high and 200 meters in length. 
But a local Menba man came to tell us that Under the cliff of the bridge, a mass of Wild Toxic Hornet arrived in recent days, it will be very dangerous to across the bridge right now

We all were cautioned. The Wild Hornet was dangerous. One of our member Shan touched a Hornet accidentally and he was bitted to faint, just a few days ago. If this happened during the string bridge crossing, its consequence will be serious. I went to investigate the situation first.

I saw a few Hornets flying nearby the bridge. Not a lot. I thought, and turned back. On the slope, I saw Su sat on the rock, holding his head down. When he lift his head, I was astonished: his half face was swallow to almost unrecognizable, his eyes became a narrow line and could not open. The reason was when he just walked a few yards, a Hornet bitted his eye.
The old Tibetan guide Bursa told us that under such situation, the only way will be to across the bridge in heavy raining or night. But very few people dare to do it.

 

 

Through the string bridge was a risk of life.
The skill of Prof. Li Bosen was praised even by the Tibetans.

 

Across the string in raining night

I considered the dangers. Should we give up the plan? However the virgin forests that nobody ever explored was such a strong attraction to a scientist. I decided to take the risk.

It was a raining night, we held torches arrived the bridge and check it carefully. Do you know how to use the string bridge? There was a curved wood saddle attached on the string bridge. You need to use your security string surrounded your body and the cut lines on two ends of the  saddle to hanging your body, then use your hands and feet to move forward.
It was a old bridge, the wood saddle was nearly broken. Our Menba guide tied another wood to it. A Tibetan guide went first. We saw his figure moving on the string bridge and gradually disappeared in the dark. 
I tied myself onto the saddle, started to slip along the string of the bridge. after a distance of about 10 meters, suddenly a "Ka Ba" sound, my body was inclined to one end of the saddle. I stopped. I crossed my feet over the string , and use one hand grasp it, then use another free hand to check the situation. The old saddle was broken, and my security string was slipped out from its cut lines. I had to use all my strength to support my body and tried to put the security string back into the cut lines of the broken saddle. 
I continued the bridge crossing.
But my mind was agitated. I prayed if this piece of added wood can support my body weight. 
Near the middle of the bridge, it was heavy raining, strong wind pushed my body flying in the air. Everything came to my mind: my family in Beijing, the warm and comfortable home, my wife, my lovely son and my old mother . . . I almost exhausted, but still climbing, climbing on the string. Through my rain stained glasses, I saw the torch light on the cliff, I knew it was the family of our Tibetan guide, they were watching and praying that we will be safe. A warm current through my whole body, I controlled my affection, concentrate on climbing. Suddenly a big hand catcher my shoulder, the arrived Tibetan guide poured my body to the end of the string bridge.

When my feet stood on the land again, I felt that I was returned to the Earth from another world.

 

Walk in Tropical Rain Forest

In the morning, I was waked up by a terrible dream, on the moment of fallen down from the string bridge . . . Outside the tent, the rain stopped. The sound of the Yalung Tsangpu River reminded me that we were in the east side of the river.  A pleasure of victory made me get up, put on still wet cloth and shoes, I went out running towards the tropical forest.


We walked in the forest, the trees were over 30 meters tall. I observed and recorded every tree, plant . . . we penetrated into the forest further and further. I saw several higher white trees as tall as 40 meters. These were the first layer of tropical forest. Underneath it growing the second layer of trees, scrubs, climbing plants surrounded everywhere. Some flowers and fruits growing on the big trees. 

I used a long knife to open the way, and caution of snakes. There were dozen species of snakes including several very toxic snakes. I saw the tree branches moving, it was monkeys playing. 
Finally we reached a spatial land. I was relaxed and cricked a branch as my seat. Just a few minutes, my arm was pain , Oh, it was my fault, I took a branch from a toxic scrub, it secrets a concentrated toxic liquid, my arm will be swallow and pain for at least one week.

Nevertheless, it was a great pleasure to observe the treasure in the virgin forests.

 
Expedition in forests.
Around fire in the night.

Dangerous Wild Pigs in the Forest

On the way towards a abandoned village in the forest, we took a break in a little space of the forest. The altitude here was 1,100m. Several Our Tibetan guides brought 3 hunting dogs with them. Tibet dog is the most aggressive dog in the world. For Menba hunters, the hunting dog is their most precious treasure, the price of a good hunting dog equals to several horses or  yaks.

"But these 3 dogs were so small and thin," I thought. "One even has no tail."

We put fire on. Suddenly the 3 dogs shouted vigorously, they escaped chains and running into the forest. Three Tibetan hunters jumped up 
"Wild Pig!" They took their hunting guns running after the dogs.
Following a single shoot, a 250 kg big wild pig was laid down on the land, the 3 dogs were biting it. well, these little dogs real can fight. 
They hunted 3 big wild pigs in one day, Another 4th wild pig was fallen into the river from the cliff and swimming to escape. 

A whole night, the hunters were busy to make dried meat. Next morning, we brought part of the dried meat with us, reserve the remained meat on a high stage. Our best hunter Sangytogy walked in front of us, I was busy to collect the specimen and making record on the way and gradually I became the last one. 

Suddenly I heard a terrible cry, a huge black animal push over the body of Sangytogy on the ground. We all running towards him. His head was blooding. We treated his wound with medicine, let him drunk water. Then he told us that it was a old female wild pig. It was chased by the dogs, he heard the dog shouting but could not see the wild pig. When he climbed onto the slope, just encountered the wild pig. Instantly Sangy used his hunting gun push the chest of the wild pig and fired. But the gun was in safe mode, The mad wild pig bitted his head and right hand, then towards the crowd. Everybody had to laid down on the ground. The wild pig then ran into the forest. 

The Tibetan hunters said that the Wild pig was the most dangerous animal in the forest, next dangerous one should be the Bear, and  the third one was tiger. If it was a male wild pig, Sangy could be killed. The male wild pig has two long teeth as sharp as knives.

 

New Discoveries in rainbow Waterfall Valley

 

After I treated all collected specimens, we went on for the last part of our expedition - Deyanla.

Deyanla is the 4th mountain entry of the East Himalayas, 4,300 m above sea level. Its glaciers originated White Horse Sili River flow to Xilang entering Yalung Tsangpu River at an altitude of <600 m. In a short length of about 100 km, the altitude difference of the White Horse Sili River reached 4,000 m. No wonder it runs like a wild horse.

We came into the White Horse Sili Valley. I felt that we came into a different Fairland world. The west side of the valley was the straight cliff, The water drop down from several hundreds meters height to form numerous waterfalls. Some were narrow lines which turned into silver fog & clouds suspended in the valley; some were large silver river roaring down from the sky,  once it touched the bottom of the valley, water fog and clouds raised up. The sunset light reflects on it forming beautiful rainbow, with the butterflies dancing in it and the birds singing for it. 
I believe this was the nature gave our explorers the priceless  reward. We named this wonderful place as "Rainbow Waterfall Valley". 

Next day, the heavy rain started. We walked along the valley. There was no any path, we had to find out the way to go forward. We walked 8 days in the valley, our food getting short. There will be another 2 days journey and one week work period in the target area. 

The waterfalls gradually disappeared, we reached 1,800 m elevation, Many snow falls dropped down from the cliff and blocked the valley. When we through the snow falls and looked down: I was astonished by the scene, I saw a dense forest. There was no any green leaves on the trees, but full of  red spouts of leaves. I could not believe my eyes, I ran into the forest, cut off a piece of skin from the tree, it was pink color. I was extremely excited! This was a new discovery, a new type of forest - Semi-Evergreen Broad Leaf Forest. These trees were Himalayas and Tibet endemic species. In Winter its leaves were not fallen; but changing its leaves in the Spring. This new discovery has had important scientific meaning.

 

New discoveries were the greatest happiness of scientist.
         
       
Menba people, A minority of Tibetans.
Menba Wine Parties

We lived like the wild men in the last few days of our White Horse Sili Valley adventure. However we insisted and completed our expedition task.

On the way back, I sent a fast running guide back to the village first and bringing food come to meet us. On the 5th day, we met on the middle way. Many families of our guides came, they were laughing, chatting and crying together. I have seen such scenes many times, every expedition connecting many families. I* felt happy for them, but also thought of our families in the far away cities.

The coming crowd did not bring so much food, but a lot of bamboo tanks full of wine. Memba people like to drink. They said if only a few days without drink, their strength were lost. Before this expedition, the guides had drink with their families for a half day. 

This evening, we had a drink party and almost finished all the wine. Next morning, all rush back to home in one day instead of the normal 4 days time. It was the miracle of the wine.

When we arrived the village, we were surrounded by the whole village people. Every family invited us to be their guest for dinner. 

When I went to a family to have dinner with them, the next host was waiting outside the door. During Menba dinner party, the Hostess brought me a bowl of wine, I drank a bit, she add a bit more wine. After this bowl, other embers of the family paid their respects as well. After  5 - 6 dinner parties, I was slightly  drunken.

Summer will coming soon. The snow closed pathway of the East Himalayas will be open again. We prepared to leave this mysterious and beautiful region. We said good bye to the brave Tibetan people and the biology treasure of the Great Canyon.

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  Fight King Cobra
  Adventure in Glaciers
  Fog dance over the lake 
  Flying on String Bridges
  Wander in the richest Fungi Kingdom

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